almanac

Almanac: September-October 2018

by cathym on September 5, 2018

What To Do in the Garden in September & October

Planting spring flowering bulbs

AUTUMN GARDENING CHORES
Remove, pick up, and discard any diseased plants or leaves. Disinfect your pruners as you move from plant to plant to prevent spreading fungal spores, bacteria, phytoplasma, and viruses.

Divide early-summer–blooming perennials that have become overgrown, show diminished bloom, or have a bare spot in the clump center (doughnut). Do this in early fall while there is still enough time for the roots to settle in for the winter.

Deadhead (cut off the flower/seed heads) plants that seed freely unless you want seedlings. This will cut down on your weeding next year. Leave the seed heads of astilbe, black-eyed-Susan, coneflower, and daisies intact to provide food for birds and winter interest.

Remove weeds to prevent both perennial and annual weeds from getting a head start in the spring.

Add compost to your beds to improve soil texture and promote beneficial microbes to prepare the garden for next spring.

Spread fallen leaves to serve as a protective mulch for your plants.

Don’t heavily prune trees or shrubs at this time. Pruning now may prevent hardening off and encourage new growth that can be killed back during the winter.

Don’t prune lavender, azaleas, viburnums, rhododendrons, forsythias, or spiraea.

BULBS, TUBERS, AND CORMS
Plant spring flowering bulbs from mid-September through October to allow bulbs to set strong roots—resulting in more successful blooms.

It’s difficult to tell the top from the bottom of some bulbs. The skin is loose at the top and attached at the bottom. If you can’t tell, plant them sideways.

To deter moles, voles, and squirrels, ring the planting area with a mixture of soil and gravel or put small chicken wire between the bulbs and soil surface.

Plant bulbs two-to-three times as deep as their height, or a little deeper for naturalizing varieties.

Dig and store summer-blooming tubers such as caladium and elephant ear before frost and tuberous begonias, cannas, and dahlias after the foliage is blackened by frost.

FRUITS – VEGETABLES – HERBS
Pot up some of your garden herbs and bring them in the house for fresh herbs during the winter.

Cover plants if early frost is expected.

Harvest frost-tender veggies and herbs such as basil, tomatoes, beans, peppers, eggplants, squash, and pumpkins.

Don’t wait too long before picking pears—they ripen from the inside out. Take a fruit in your hand and tilt it horizontally. If the fruit comes off the branch it is time to pick your pears.

Cut off the growing tip of each tomato stem to prevent new flowering. The energy will then go into the tomatoes already on the vine.

Continue watering into the autumn so developing vegetables such as tomatoes and peppers mature.

Allow winter squash such as butternut and acorn to fully ripen on the vine. The rind will be hard and not easily punctured. Harvest before the frost.

Harvest onions when the bulbs are mature and the tops start to turn yellow. Store in a dry place.

Plant radishes, kale and spinach for your last crops of the season.

Plant your largest garlic cloves around Columbus Day about three inches deep.

Plant cover crops or spread composted manure or compost over unplanted areas.

Mulch carrot rows for winter harvesting.

LAWNS
September is the best time to fertilize your lawn or seed a new one. Remember to water newly seeded areas regularly to keep the soil moist. Choose high quality seed appropriate for your site.

Overseed bare spots in the lawn. Filling in bare spots helps prevent weeds in those areas next year.

Check your lawn for grubs by lifting up about one square foot of sod. If there are more than 10–12 grubs per foot you may want to treat the lawn.

GENERAL

Don’t spread mulch until the ground freezes.

Trees, shrubs or any newly planted perennials should be  kept well-watered until the soil freezes.

In late September, bring in any houseplants that have been outside or annuals you want to winter over. Give the foliage a good soapy bath and check them carefully for insects. Keep them isolated from your other houseplants for two to three weeks. Do this is before you have to turn on the furnace. This cuts down on the shock of moving inside.

Harvest sunflowers when the seeds are firm. (Cover with mesh if birds are a problem.) Cut the heads with about a foot of stem. Hang in a dry area to complete seed ripening.

Watch out for Asian ladybugs, stink bugs and western conifer seed bugs that enter homes looking for warmth and shelter. Caulking and weather stripping helps prevent their entry. They are not harmful and can be vacuumed up. Empty the vacuum bag to dispose of them.

This is the time for fall webworm (Hyphantria cunea). Spraying is not necessary. Consider hosing down the webs to disturb the cycle.

Take pictures of your gardens. Make notes for next year’s gardens now—what worked, what didn’t; what to add, remove, or move. You think you will remember next year, but you won’t!

Plant winter pansies, ornamental kale, and mums. In October bring some pumpkins and gourds to the landscape for seasonal interest.

—Lyn Chimera and Carol Ann Harlos, Erie County Master Gardeners

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Almanac: July-August 2018

by cathym on July 2, 2018

Buddy the Boston terrier helping to move plants, Rush, NY.

The dog days of summer are upon us. Ever wonder where that expression came from? Is it because it’s too hot even for a dog to get up and run around? Not exactly. According to the Old Farmer’s Almanac, the dog days start July 3 and run for 40 days, ending August 11. This coincides with the rising of the Dog Star, Sirius. Regardless of how the saying started or where it came from, we all think of this time of year as hot and sultry. Consider doing your gardening chores first thing in the morning or in the cool of the evening rather than in the heat of the day.

Watering Needs
In the heat of the summer, monitor your new plantings for watering needs. A general rule of thumb is that plants need one inch of water per week. If Mother Nature does not provide it, you need to. Drip or trickle irrigation will deliver water directly to the root zone, which is great for vegetable plants. If they do not get adequate water, your vegetables will not develop normally. Try to water early in the day so the foliage has a chance to dry off by nightfall. Wet foliage can lead to disease issues. Using mulch will help maintain soil moisture and help keep weeds—which will steal moisture and nutrients from your plants—down. Avoid frequent, light watering. Instead, water deeply at wider intervals and let the water soak in. This will encourage new roots to grow deeper into the soil. Don’t forget to water trees and shrubs that have been planted in the last three years. They are still establishing their root systems. During periods of drought, street trees can also use a drink.

Daylily care during July
Peak bloom is usually during the month of July. Removing spent blooms (deadheading) daily keeps daylilies looking great. While deadheading, check for pests or diseases, and also remove any unsightly foliage. Once blooms are done you can remove the scapes for a nicer appearance. This is also a good time to make note of any daylilies that may need to be divided once they are done blooming or in the fall.

Houseplants
July and August is a good time to give houseplants a rest. Keep them watered and in a shady spot. Growth may slow down a bit as they rest. Tropical plants on the other hand need the sun but afternoon shade is always a nice respite for all plants. Water is a must along with good drainage. 

Lawns
Many of our lawns are made up of Kentucky bluegrass, which is a cool-season plant. Hot, dry summers stress it out. Without rain or irrigation, it will go dormant and turn brown until more favorable conditions arrive in autumn. Mow grass one-half inch higher than usual during the summer months to help conserve soil moisture. Do not remove clippings from the lawn unless the grass is excessively tall or weedy. Clippings return some nutrients to the soil and do not add to thatch buildup. When watering lawns, you should apply one to one-and-a-half inches of water in a single application per week. Keep newly established lawn watered during dry weather. Allow water to penetrate deeply into the soil rather than watering frequently and lightly. Frequent, light sprinklings encourage roots to stay shallow, making them more susceptible to drought.

Annuals
Annuals are great for color throughout the summer. To keep them flowering, deadhead spent flowers and pinch back lanky annuals to encourage new growth and more blossoms. Coleus flowers should also be removed. When watering add a bit of fertilizer, especially to container plantings. If you have annuals that are distorted or oddly colored they may be infected with a virus. To prevent viruses from spreading to healthy plants remove the infected ones and put them in the garbage, not the compost pile.

Vegetables
In the vegetable garden, this is prime harvest time. Pick ripe fruits and vegetables to encourage more production. Fertilize producing crops, but avoid too much on tomatoes. Late crops in the garden like squash and cucumbers need fertilizer to keep producing. Sweet corn could be showing signs of earworms so treat as necessary. Pinch out basil flowers to keep the plants producing foliage. As space becomes available plant seeds or seedlings of cool-weather, short-season crops like lettuce, radish and spinach that will mature before a hard frost.

Pest Problems
You may find yourself trying to outsmart the local wildlife this summer. Depending upon what types of fruits and vegetables you are growing, July and August can be a prime month for four legged pest problems. Rabbits enjoy salad greens and squirrels like tomatoes as much as we do, birds will devour your fruit, and deer may nibble on anything they find. You may need to erect a sturdy fence around your garden if you haven’t already. Bird netting can help deter birds from stealing your fruit before you can pick it.

Remain vigilant and continue pulling those weeds. Be ready to attack any weeds that plague your garden. Try not to let them go to seed! Don’t put weeds that have gone to seed in your compost pile. Unless your compost pile heats up, those seeds will survive only to cause problems next year.

Be on the lookout for the beginning of late blight in your tomatoes and potatoes. USABlight.org tracks confirmed cases of late blight. By checking the site you can track its progress from the southern states and take precautions when it makes it to New York. Late blight is considered to be a “community” disease and should not be ignored. Infected plants should be destroyed so that they do not continue to spread the disease. Fungicides need to be applied preventively for late blight. Chlorothalonil is the most effective conventional fungicide available to gardeners to help prevent plants from becoming infected. For organic production a copper fungicide is recommended. When using any pesticide always read and understand the label.

Misc.
Take a walk around the garden and photograph it. Take photos from different sight lines. This can help you notice holes or sad plants that need replacement or a better location. It is also a great way to document the garden for future reference.

August is a great month to find bargain plants at nurseries and garden centers. Look for season extending plants to add to your garden for autumn awesomeness. Start planning for fall planting. Containerized plants are a safe bet if you keep them watered. August is also the “last call” if you are ordering spring flowering bulbs to plant in the garden or for forcing indoors. Get your orders in so your bulbs arrive at the proper time for fall planting.

Take advantage of all the garden tours going on as many of them are free. What better way to be inspired than to learn from other gardeners? Buffalo Garden Walk is July 28 and 29, from 10 am to 4 pm. Check out Open Gardens on Thursdays in July or look for other weekend community garden tours. Listings can be found at https://gardensbuffaloniagara.com/.

This summer sit back and enjoy the fruits of your labor. Better yet, float in the pool!

—Jan Beglinger and the Genesee County Master Gardeners

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Almanac: May-June 2108

by janem on May 5, 2018

What To Do in the Garden in May & June

Basil seedlings

May Edibles:
It’s your last chance to start some slow-growing seedlings early in the month, such as tomatoes and parsley. Soak parsley seeds in lukewarm water for a few hours first. Consider getting a heated germination mat to accelerate germination. After germination, take the plants off the mat and hang fluorescent lights about four inches above them. It’s OK for seedlings to have the lights on 24 hours a day—it will accelerate growth.

Around May 10is when I start heat-loving, long-season plants such as winter squash, melons, and okra. Cucumbers and summer squash can also be started then, or you can wait until later in May or June, and seed them directly outdoors, as they are faster growing.

Early in May, there is still time to direct seed some of the cool-tolerant veggies, such as spinach, lettuce, and radishes, that are quick to harvest. It’s probably too late to plant peas, because they won’t produce before the real heat arrives.

Late in the month (or early in June) should be safe to plant your frost-sensitive, heat-loving seedlings outside, especially if you applied black plastic or IRT (infrared transmitting) mulch to warm up the soil in the veggie garden. Use rowcover to keep the plants warmer and prevent early insect attack. For real heat lovers like melons, you can leave the rowcover on for a few weeks, but be sure to remove it when they start blooming.

Now is a good time to fertilize your blueberries with the acid fertilizer ammonium sulfate (notaluminum sulfate), and/or apply elemental sulfur to keep the pH acidic enough.

May Ornamentals:
The average last frost occurs in mid-May in much of Upstate NY, but frosts in late May are quite common in some areas. Be prepared to cover sensitive perennials such as Japanese painted fern, kirengeshoma, true lilies, and even hostas, if a hard frost is predicted. I keep old blankets and sheets for this purpose (do not use plastic).

May and June are the best times to prune those woody plants that are considered “bleeders.” Maples, birch, yellowwood, magnolia, linden, willow, and nut trees are just a few trees that are best pruned in this time frame, after the sap is finished running. Peach trees are also best pruned when in bloom or just afterwards (see the Cornell Guide to Growing Fruit at Homefor details).

The first part of May is still a good time to divide hardy perennials such as daylilies, hosta, and phlox. It’s also when fall bloomers like asters and mums can be divided. Be sure the roots are moist first and be prepared to replant (or pot them up) immediately. After transplanting I use milk crates or buckets to keep the sun off for a couple of days if the weather turns hot and sunny. Now is a good time to pot up (or move) seedlings if you’ve allowed your perennials to self-sow. If you have double-flowered peonies, you should install peony cages early in the month to support the heavy blooms.

Keep applying deer repellent on the succulent new growth as needed.

Prune early-spring–flowering shrubs like forsythia right after they bloom.

Check your ash trees for emerald ash borer and decide if treatment or removal is warranted. Young, healthy trees respond to treatment better than old, declining trees. If you have considerable land, consider leaving some ash trees alone, in case they prove to be resistant.

Either April or May is a good time to use your germination heat mat for getting heat-loving tropical “bulbs” such as caladiums started. Use shallow pots until they sprout. Depending on your microclimate, you may need to pot them up again before they can be safely planted outside. Other tender bulbs or tubers, such as dahlias and cannas, can also be potted up early, but should grow at normal indoor room temperature.

Keep your lawn mower set to three inches or higher, be sure the blade is sharp, and mow frequently as needed. Wait until early fall to fertilize, will encourage root growth rather than top growth.

June Edibles:
Keep up with the weeding! Don’t let the weeds go to seed. After the soil has warmed up sufficiently for peppers and tomatoes, go ahead and put down mulch. Stake or cage your tomatoes before it’s too late. Plant Brussels sprouts transplants. There is still time to sow cucumbers and summer squash. Plant carrots in late June to avoid the carrot maggot, which usually has only one generation a year.

Now it’s time to harvest peas and strawberries! Juneberries (a.k.a. amelanchier or shadblow) will be ripe in May or June also. Finish harvesting rhubarb and asparagus by mid-month.

After fruit trees drop their excess, thin the remaining fruit as needed to get bigger, better fruit (see the Cornell guide cited above).

Install a rain gauge or consider getting an electronic weather station that delivers data such as temperatures, wind speed, and rainfall inches to a display inside the house.

June Ornamentals:
Keep weeding!

Pinch or cut back perennials (before the end of the month) that bloom in late summer or fall, in order to make them shorter and bushier—asters, mums, boltonia, etc. See The Well-Tended Perennial Gardenby Tracy Di Sabato-Aust for details.

Deadhead peonies, bearded irises, and rhododendrons, among others. Look for iris flower fly maggots, especially in Siberian iris, but also in bearded iris.

Dig up spring bulbs that need dividing (leave daffodils to the last to allow the foliage more time to feed the bulbs).

Mid-June is the usual time to take softwood cuttings from deciduous shrubs.

Early in June, it should be safe to move some houseplants outside for the summer. Avoid sunburned leaves by siting them in some shade.

Go on garden tours—they are great fun and there are lots of ideas to borrow from fellow gardeners!

—Pat Curran and the Tompkins County Master Gardeners

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